Cruising on the MV Lillian Belle: Nov. 8th and 9th Bainbridge Island

Rock sculpture at marina

Winslow Wharf Marina

Eagle Harbor

Bainbridge Island

November 8^th and 9^th

Fun boat names…Gesundheit! …Jolly Mon from Port of Margaritaville … Sea Sharp…Don’t Panic!...Golden Ticket…Lady in Waiting…Small Yard

We woke up to screeching crows right outside our window…what a “fingernails on a blackboard” wake up call! They were not happy about something. But I sure was happy…we got sunshine this morning! I’ve been missing it. After the high winds and rainy days, it is hard to believe that the weather could make such a lovely turn overnight.

Just before we shoved off David was in the engine room and suddenly he was being showered by hot water leaking from the hot water tank in the wheelhouse. The first “emergency” of the day was happening and we hadn’t yet had our first cup of coffee! We opened up all the radiators and bled the air out and then refilled the tank which in turn refilled the radiators. Geoff and I had our assigned stations watching for drips from the radiator valves and once that happened, we closed the valves...so much responsibility for so early in the morning! I am happy to report that all is well.

We reached Eagle Harbor 4 ½ hours after leaving Langley. The town of Winslow (often referred to as simply Bainbridge) looks out into the harbor and across the Puget Sound to Seattle. Since we have visited Seattle on several occasions, we decided to explore Winslow instead. Our voyage was calm and without consequence while experiencing a bit more traffic today than we have seen on any other day…mainly ferries… still very few boats are out and about and sailboats are motoring not sailing. Geoff and I spotted a large fish leaping several times out of the water as if it were being pursued by some predator…we hoped it was an Orca but no sighting of one nor a seal.

Eagle Harbor is filled with several separate marinas seeming to blend into each other plus a ferry dock for transport to Seattle. It was a bit confusing and worrisome as we crept into the harbor searching for the Winslow Wharf Marina…of course, no clear marina signs were in sight. Luckily, Geoff spotted the small shed on one of the docks which was our “landmark” for our dock assignment. Dave brought the Belle in smoothly as always but I could not step on to the deck right away because there was a set of portable stairs placed on the end of the dock. Knowing that securing that mid-line is crucial to not having the bow swing out away from the dock, I stretched my foot out on to the stairway and then stepped on to the dock to save the day in a gazelle-like motion! We have done really well with our docking skills on this trip…of course, having Geoff with us certainly helps.

The moorage fees have increased as we travel southward. In Bellingham it was only $30 a night, Oak Harbor was $40, in Langley we paid $60 and here it is $58. I always feel safer having moorage at a marina instead of anchoring during stormy weather so we pay the price. During the summer, some moorages double or even triple.

We walked up to the pub right at the top of the wharf. We were all craving a beer and some munchies. The food was really good at Doc’s Marina Grill, and we got a special beer of the day brewed in Port Townsend for $2…can’t beat that! We toasted ourselves for a job well done. Afterward, we walked into town in search of some cheap wine. The cheapest we could find was $6. We are spoiled at home with our Grocery Outlet deals of $3 or $4 a bottle. We are finding groceries very expensive on the islands we have visited, which does make sense considering the possible transport costs of certain produce, etc. The Town and Country market here, like The Star market in Langley, has everything you would ever want…a mix of groceries, hardware, novelties and clothing.

Bainbridge Island was once known for its berry farms but today it is primarily a bedroom community. Many commute across the sound by ferry to Seattle for work, and it makes perfect sense. After a day’s work, it must be wonderful to escape to a quaint, quiet neighborhood with a gorgeous view of the big city. You get to live in both worlds

Each island community we have toured has a very artistic flavor with many galleries and arts and crafts stores. Bainbridge is called “Frog Rock” and there are large painted frogs scattered around town. In my opinion, although not a big fan of them, those painted frogs in Calaveras County are far more creative! I look forward to my stroll through Winslow tomorrow checking out some of the book and antique stores and boutiques.

Next day…

It is early afternoon on Saturday afternoon right now and we just returned from a walk through town. I left on my own this morning while the guys did some repairs on the boat and then we met for lunch. I had the best time browsing and even found a few Christmas stocking stuffers along the way. There were two well stocked toy and game shops that were great fun to explore. We ended up getting a deli sandwich at a place called, believe it or not, Hitchcock’s Deli! There is a restaurant attached to the deli which is open only for dinner and the chef has apparently won national awards. Hitchcock’s Restaurant has been featured in Sunset Magazine among other publications.

I was told by a very helpful woman in a baby shop (now, why would I be there?) that we were not to miss out on Mora’s creamery. Their ice cream apparently has recently been chosen as the best in the U.S.A. but there was no room after our mighty sandwiches. We found the Harbour Public House which is another pub recommended near the marina. I was informed that this particular pub is a favorite destination choice of people living in the Seattle area who take the ferry ride just to eat there. It was bustling with people so our plan to stop and have a beer was shelved until maybe this evening.

I forgot to mention that while docked in Langley some salmon fisherman were busy cleaning their catch and unloading their boat practically right outside our door. David kindly brought out hot homemade soup to the two hard working and chilled fisherman. They in turn gave David a large gutted salmon and two salmon heads for our crab pots. We have yet to cook up the salmon or use the crab bait but their generosity was so unexpected and appreciated. It will be salmon for dinner in Gig Harbor tomorrow night!

David commented that the best place to have dropped our crab pots that night would have been right beside that fishing boat. They were throwing over so much chum into the water that he was sure there would be a swarm (what is a group of crab called, anyway?) of crab to catch. Oh, well…next time.

Dave and I took a stroll along the docks of the marina to check out the boats which we really enjoy doing. My favorite type of boat is the Nordic Tug. It’s is on my wish list if the Belle ever becomes too much for us to handle which could happen as soon as Geoff leaves!!

We did return to the Harbour Public House for dinner but it was going to be at least an hour’s wait for a table…popular place. Instead of waiting, we walked uptown and found Nola’s which had some of the best calamari I have tasted! We made great entrée choices and managed to sample the best ice cream in the USA which we passed up earlier in the day…Mora’s banana split ice cream…for dessert. We then took a short walk to the Performing Arts Center for a one man show entitled “My Last Year with the Nuns” written and performed by Matt Smith…a comedy grounded in the joys and horrors of male adolescence. He told stories about his 8^th grade year in a Catholic School on Capital Hill in Seattle in the 60’s. Some pretty funny stuff.

The streets of Winslow were pretty much abandoned at 9:30 as we walked back to the boat but noticed some pretty packed pubs along the way.

Sightings

Whales 0

Seals 2

Otters 0

Seagulls and crows…plenty

Nautical miles traveled 159

Ports of Call 4