Viner Sound/Port McNeill

                                                         Entering Viner Sound

VINER SOUND

After weaving our way through floating logs for almost two hours, we entered Viner Sound and followed it nearly to the end before finding a spot to anchor. This is one of many destinations Bruce and Anita suggested. Once again we find ourselves in possession of the entire anchorage area. It certainly didn’t take long before we dropped our crab pots and then took a dinghy cruise around to explore. There are actually some beach areas throughout the sound and some very interesting rock formations.

Unfortunately, the horse flies followed us here. The good news is after they delight in pestering us all day, once it starts to cool down, they disappear. That’s when we escape to the outside. They hurt when they bite and leave large welts and they can bite through clothing! Not nice. You might strike one and have it fall to the floor with its feet up and seconds later it revives itself and starts flying around again...eerie. Dave and I are already armed and ready with fly swatters poised to strike.

It is difficult to understand how Spanish moss could be draping from the trees in this sound. It doesn’t seem to be warm enough and yet, the moss is plentiful.  There is also a large rock which is quite colorfully covered in wildflowers. 

                                              Wildflower Rock

                                           Horseflies...be warned!

We were joined in the early evening by another boat anchoring near to us. The sound is so narrow that they had to be near us. We watched them paddle out in their kayaks. We had thought about taking ours out earlier but he wind had picked up. They were obviously skilled at what they were doing. One day we will be, too (one can only hope).

This morning we woke up to fog and struck out to gather our crab pots. We had eight crabs in the first pot and one undersized crab in the second one. We were able to keep four of the large males. Obviously, this is a great place to go crabbing!  When we took off in the dinghy this morning, we were so concerned about staying clear of the tow line in the water that we forgot about the stern tie line. It had fallen out of the boat and wrapped around the moving propeller!  Luckily, we were able to untangle it and the engine started right up again. That’s the first time that has ever happened.

                                                   Foggy departure

After losing another cribbage game to David…he is 4 games ahead of me…we had a bit of an unsettling start to a night’s sleep because David was often checking the anchor alarm and position of the boat. There were some very shallow areas close to where we needed to anchor, and we certainly did not want to swing or drift into them, but all was well.

When we hauled the anchor out this morning, we brought up something a bit extra…someone’s crab pot with lots of crab…hmmm, so tempting!  David leaned over the bow and carefully untangled the line and released the pot … down it went to await its lucky owner to retrieve.

Well, plans are made to change, right?  And ours changed this morning. With favorable weather forecasted for the rest of the week, David thought it might be wise to head to Port McNeill today across the Queen Charlotte Strait rather than wait until the weekend when storms might be moving in…so now we are headed in that direction. We will nose into the Strait and if it looks good, we will cross. If not, we have an alternative destination. Always have a Plan B…Plans C and D would be good, too!

                                             Reflections in the sound

We have read about the multiple fires raging across BC, as many as 50 just starting up last weekend. As we entered Viner Sound, we weren’t sure if it was smoke, mist or high fog we were seeing over the mountains. Our friend, Michelle, wrote to us that there is smoke lingering over our home marina in New Westminster from nearby fires. It’s turning out to be a long, hot, smoke-filled and fiery summer up here for many residents.

It eventually took us about 5 ½ hours to reach the dock at Port McNeill Boat Harbour. Port McNeill is in the northern part of Vancouver Island and we have never been here. We were fighting the current and the fog all the way until we were in reach of the Harbour.  We were slowed down to about 4.5 knots for a good chunk of the way. The fog was uncomfortable to deal with, but our radar served us well once again. The weather channel reported fog until noon, it did not lift for us until around 3:00 when we could finally see the mountain tops.

                                   

                            This floating tree is a definite navigational hazard!

We were just reaching the breakwater for the entrance into the docks when we were hailed by a boater who said that he had been towing a powerless boat in until he lost forward motion…he could only go in reverse. The boat he was towing was behind us about a half mile just bobbing in the water. He asked if we could tow them in.

                     

We cruised over to them and made ready to tie the stalled boat to our starboard side but the winds were making it a challenge. After circling around and trying a second time, we managed to get a line to the woman at the stern. She then noticed that her friend’s boat which had somehow recovered from his “only reverse engine” problem had come back out to help. They decided it was easier to go with the smaller boat since they had to be towed all the way into the harbour past where we were to dock. They were very grateful to us for coming to their aide. It was our very first rescue attempt in which we were not the ones being rescued!

                  The powerless boat in Port McNeill Bay...Lillian Belle to the rescue!

The young woman who helped dock our boat turned out to be the daughter of the owners of the Kwatsi Bay Marina. She is delightful. We got ourselves settled in and then headed for the pub. Beer never tasted so good!  We then toured the town center near the marina and bought groceries, wine and jeans. We were able to wheel the shopping cart with all our goods back to the marina…later on someone from the store will pick it up…such a deal!

On our way to the store, we were passing a florist. I am not sure if the woman I saw come out was the owner or an employee, but she smiled at me and said, “Here’s a pretty rose for a pretty lady”, and she handed me a beautiful yellow and orange Leonardo Rose.  What a lovely and unexpected welcoming to Port McNeill that was!!

                                           The gift of the Leonardo Rose

                                  Docked with all the other fancy yachts

                                     Bringing groceries back to the dock

              Between all the crab we are trapping and David's cooking...life is good!

Kwatsi Bay

                                                                  Our view from the dock

KWATSI BAY MARINA

After three nights and four days, we finally shoved off from the Public Dock on Minstrel Island. Even though it was a mini “ghost town”, the dock served us well and kept us safe and secure during some nasty winds.

We had to cross over Johnstone Strait with 28mph winds and lumpy seas but it wasn’t at all harrowing. Found our way to Tribune Channel passing a fish farm with what looked like a pretty impressive waterfall as the back drop at one time…it was now only a trickle. I believe it is called Lacey Falls.

We found this beautiful refuge at Kwatsi Bay and moored at the Marina. David brought her into the dock so effortlessly and there were three men waiting to “nail us down”.  Easy.  The owners, Anca and Max, were very welcoming, and we were thrilled to find out that they had internet access…wahoo!

The marina had plenty of water so we were able to fill our tanks…there will be showers tonight!!  There is no power here because the lake at the top of the hill is dry so no water is coming down the flume to drive the pelten wheel, so had to run our generator but no big deal. All four boats moored here are American and we celebrated our Independence Day with a Potluck.  Anca and Max brought a beautiful baked salmon, and David’s spaghetti was a big hit. We sat for hours talking about our boating adventures and places to visit. One of the Yanks is an 80 year old woman from Anacortes who sounds like she has been boating her whole life and really seemed to know her stuff.  She was definitely an inspiration.

                                              Happy 4th of July!

Anca and Max shared some horrifying cougar and bear stories. They had to shoot two cougars that were on top of their roof. The bear attack stories were enough to scare you to death but the air horn, we were told was a good deterrent for bears but not cougars.  You can smell and hear a bear near you but the cougars are stalkers so if you see one, make yourself as big as you can, scream loudly and back away very slowly. Just so you know. They also shared that just in this bay there are usually 11 waterfalls but this summer there are none. Anca said that this is the driest summer she could recall in 30 years.

                        The marina owners' home without the cougars on the roof.

With only four boats moored here, we asked if this was typical at this time in the summer. Anca said, “No, we are usually very busy at this time. I think it is probably because of the forceful winds on the Johnstone. People can’t get through or they have decided to wait it our. One boat came in and reported 8 foot waves on the Johnstone just a couple of days ago.” Yikes!

We have not seen bears yet but lots of  bald eagles, seals and one frisky otter. We are amused by the swallows who we have observed dive bombing a crow, an eagle and even a pet cat on the dock. They are fiercely guarding their nests.

                                               Surrounded by beauty

There’s a book exchange here so I spent some time trading reading material. Can’t believe how much I am reading which is a good thing. We will be joining a Happy Hour tonight at 5:00. David was going to make a clam chowder if we could find a clam garden in this area. That idea was squashed when Anca said that clamming at this time of the year in this area is not done because of the increased danger of toxins in the clams (red tide). Drat!

We had a chance to discuss our itinerary for the next 10 days before arriving in Echo Bay.  From Kwatsi Bay, we will head for Viner Sound, then to Simoom Sound, and then on to Shaw Bay where there might be internet to make a connection with you again, then to Sullivan Bay where there may also be a chance for internet and then off to Tracey Harbour before crossing  Queen Charlotte’s Strait to Port McNeil and Alert Bay, then back across the Strait to Waddington Bay and then off to Echo Bay for Prime Rib on the 16^th and a Pig Roast on the 18^th…always thinking of our stomachs.  Of course, this could all change due to weather but it’s nice to have a plan so we can totally ignore it!

                                   Just imagine waterfalls added to this scene!

Many more boats joined us on our second day here and once again during Happy Hour we got lots of advice on where to go and where to dock.  Invaluable information for us “newbies”. 

We are off this morning to a new bay and try some crab trapping. Haven’t had crab in four days…we are way overdue.

                                                    Our "Up Close and Personal" neighbors

                      This has been a lovely and peaceful place. Had the best sleep in a week here.

                                      David finally ran out of paint! So close to the finish line!

                             

              

Restless Winds Minstrel Island

                           Crab pots waiting to be collected at Minstrel Island

RESTLESS WINDS

Last night still tethered to the Public Dock on Minstrel Island, we could hear the rumble of the wind across the water before it slammed into our boat…all night long.  We were so grateful to be attached to a dock.  The northwesterly wind which was forecasted turned into a southerly blast for us. Gale force winds are predicted to continue throughout the entire weekend. We are planning to leave for Port Elizabeth tomorrow which is only 10 nautical miles away at the mouth of Knight Inlet.  Hopefully, we will find good protection.

David wanted very much to take the trail on the island, and I didn’t want him to go alone. I got my metal can filled with coins… perfect for my bear repellent rattle and David was armed with our air horn…so off we went for our two hour walkabout.  We followed a logging road for a time and then found a narrow trail with lush growth of unknown berries, hollyhocks, and gorgeous purple flowers yet to be identified. This path just lead us to the well of one of the neighboring houses. Their generator was operating a water pump…pumping water from their well to a holding tank. We turned around so we wouldn’t trespass and explored one of the abandoned buildings.

                                           Trying to follow the path

I would have loved to have seen this place in its heyday. We have read that it was the seasoned Fisherman’s “headquarters” for relaxation and camaraderie and the center of activity in The Broughtons at one time. The large building we explored looked like it had been deserted in haste. There were empty boxes scattered about along with furniture, vacuum cleaners, computer parts, small appliances, headboards, mattresses, freezers, washing machines, dryers, ice maker, desks, space heaters, and even some skivvies hanging over a line above the wood burning stove!  What a shame to have such a fascinating part of local history just sit and decay,  but I can just imagine the cost of having it restored to it’s glory days.

                                   Haven't yet identified these lovely flowers

The fog rolled in slowly over the mountains early in the evening. The winds didn’t pick up until after midnight and then continued into the morning which had not happened before. Usually, the mornings brought calmness. We were going to head out to Port Elizabeth but decided to stay put here for another day and get some staining done and not fight the winds and waves. Having lots of time on this trip gives us much more flexibility which is a luxury.

I am definitely not one to be glued to my computer, ipad or my phone which I rarely  have turned on, but not being able to communicate with loved ones back home is a bit disconcerting. I also have my Blog which only has three posts so far in over a month. Whenever and wherever we finally find reliable WiFi, it will take hours to update it, I'm sure.

                                       Public dock...watch your step!

                                             Buoys and spahgetti 

                       Range finders on Chatham Channel...line them up and you're good to go!

                                                               Island Post Office

                             

                                          

Minstrel Island

MINSTREL ISLAND PUBLIC DOCK

The winds were mighty fierce yesterday afternoon and evening. It was an uncomfortable experience. There were white caps and gusts roaring through the cove. We put our anchor watch on and studied it closely. We were being tossed about but the anchor held firm…thank goodness.  At around midnight, David got up to check around when the winds started up again. He noticed another boat in the bay.  In the morning we realized it was a beautiful double-mast yawl. There were several people aboard recovering from what must have been quite a wild ride on their way in.

We left Boughey Bay around 8:30 a.m. and headed through Chatham Channel, a very narrow shallow stretch of water. David timed the tides just right, and we followed the range markers through depths as low as 25 feet. We decided to explore the Public Dock on Minstrel Island first before considering Cutter Cove.  We both thought with the forceful winds threatening to blow hard again tonight, being tied to a dock sounded like a wise idea.

                          Floating trees and logs are definitely to be avoided.

We docked with ease and after tying up, went on a walkabout. This used to be a bustling fishing dock with restaurant, store and residences. It is such a shame that it has been so neglected and is in such disrepair. The docks are a bit rickety in spots and David kept reminding me to walk on the beam for support. There was a shed filled with furniture, tools and sawdust. Where we believe the restaurant once was, a table with old abandoned bottles perched on top sat facing the water…. a sad reminder of what must have been.

We started up an overgrown path but when I saw all the wild berries, I got a bit spooked. I really would like to have a bear sighting but wish to experience it from the comfort of my boat watching from afar. I headed back and urged David to follow.  

 

There are two houses near by that we can see. Several boats are docked at their float. They might be having a Canada Day gathering.  A large power boat tied up along side us early afternoon and several people got off to explore and have lunch. They are on a 9 hour grizzly bear tour. Talked to one gentleman who said they did see grizzlies on Knight Inlet earlier today and spotted some black bear, as well. Anita told us of a spot on the inlet called, Glendale, where she and Bruce spotted a mama grizzly and cubs playing in the water. We hope to make it there. 

Early this afternoon we took our dinghy over to Lagoon Cove. David filled our gas cans for the dinghy at almost $5.50 a gallon (!), but it had to be done. We were met by the friendly proprietress who told us that the resort was her husband’s dream and after 57 years of marriage, he passed away two years ago. She will continue to run it until it sells.

 

She invited us to tour the grounds while she tended to her homemade bread. We chuckled at the signs posted about urging you to “exercise” by splitting wood and mowing the lawn. There are some hiking trails into the woods and a huge catchment cistern which we strolled by. We were warned to bring a loud noisemaker with us if we hiked because there are black bears. We might return tomorrow with our air horn.

                                    Lagoon Cove decorated for Canada Day

                                      Not sure they ever got any volunteers!

                                            Another view of the resort

                                      A shady spot just for David

  

We were invited to join their Canada Day celebrations but we would have to moor our boat there. After spending almost $60 on gas, we opted to stay at the free moorage at the Public Dock. We were told the WiFi was not very good at the resort, but it was going to cost us $10 to use it…no, thank you.  It looked like they were going to have a lot of fun, though, with a crab race and then a crab and prawn potluck. We’ll have fun with our hamburgers and green beans and possibly have the entire dock to ourselves. We hope to return to Lagoon Cove someday...nice people.

The winds have started to kick up again at 3:30 p.m. I hope it won’t be as unsettling as last night.

                                       Getting ready for the crab race

                                Our Canada Day celebration dinner...sans crab

                                 

                             

Boughey Bay

                                                  Still painting and with a smile on his face!

BOUGHEY BAY/PORT HARVEY

After checking the tides and the weather report last night, we decided to stay an extra day in Douglas Bay.  Depending on the winds across the Johnstone Strait, we may stop at Port Neville or keep on trucking. We have a 6 a.m. departure planned. Oh, boy, love those early mornings!

We snagged another two crabs this afternoon.  We had four that were either two small or were female which were thrown back.  Crabbing is one of our favorite pastimes when boating, and we have had pretty good luck so far this trip.  Pulling up a pot with scrambling crabs in it is definitely a thrill for us hunter/gatherer types…smiles all around especially when we are feasting on them!

David took this extra non-travel day to continue his work on the boat deck sanding and painting. I have had nothing but light chores and leisure time sitting most of the day in the wheelhouse reading and swatting horse flies.  Those flies are mammoth and mighty pesky. One flew up my pant leg and David had one up his shirt and under his hat!  They’re big enough to saddle!

             We past a tug and his raft of logs on our very early morning departure.

The next morning, I heard David up on the boat deck a little after 4:00 moving things around. At 4:30 he came to me and reported, “The wind is starting to pick up. I really think we should leave now.”  Without a whine or a whimper on my part, we shoved off a little after 5:00 a.m. following three sailboats out of Douglas Bay. David made a wise decision because our 4 hour cruise was calm and uneventful. 

We found a very snug anchorage in Boughey Bay off Havannah Channel. It is not far from Port Harvey which has a resort. We hope to take the dinghy over there tomorrow and hopefully, find WiFi and do some grocery shopping. Expecting 40 mph winds on the Johnstone Strait tomorrow afternoon so will stay here another day just to be on the safe side.  I keep searching for grizzlies on the shore. Ya never know.

                 This is probably the only SUNRISE photo you will see from me!

       

Did a bit of scrubbing around this old girl after we arrived…lots of dead flies to sweep up.  David is still painting…he’s on his third coat.

NEXT DAY;

In the morning before the winds increased, we motored over to Port Harvey which took us about 15 minutes in our dinghy. The resort was much smaller than anticipated but it had lots of nice dock space. We wandered into the  store but no one was there. After walking upstairs we found the Red Shoe Pub and smelled the coffee. There were a variety of red shoes mounted on the walls and on display. We detected Australian, British, as well as Canadian and American accents from the friendly boaters. The cinnamon rolls were everything the advertising promised…delicious! We were going to be charged $10 for WiFi because we weren’t mooring there. We decided to pass on it.

We met experienced boaters on the Red Otter who were quite helpful filling us in on places to go in The Broughtons. They were from Nanaimo and the biggest tip we got was where to find a dinghy dock in Nanaimo. We were so frustrated the last time we anchored there and could not find a spot to tie up to spend time ashore. Now we know the “secret spot”!

They also shared with us that many of the marinas in the area do not have fresh water for boaters. We have been conserving but obviously need to watch our water usage even more.

Tomorrow is Canada Day with celebrations of food, fun and fireworks planned throughout the islands. Not sure where we will be tomorrow…perhaps Lagoon Cove on Minstrel Island.  It all depends on the weather and tides.  Northwest winds are supposed to reach 45mph on the Johnstone Strait today and continue to stay strong the rest of the week. We are heading north of the strait but even in this well protected bay, we are feeling the gusts right now and are being tossed around.

Pulled up another 4 crab this afternoon. Left the traps down for a bit longer just to see if our luck holds out. It is rather strange that we are having such good fortune with trapping considering that we have used the same bait over and over. We just freeze it after each use.

                            Port Harvey Resort and home of the Red Shoe Pub

David is still painting and I’m still searching the shore for bear. When we were having coffee at the pub, the owner’s dog started barking on the deck and several people went out to look to see if he had spotted a bear…so I know they’re out there!

                                  There are always spider stowaways on board.

                                            Off to Port Harvey

                                 Look at us...we're overtaking a sailboat!

                                          Cloudy with little chance of rain