Cruising on the MV Lillian Belle: DAY 14 and 15 Kisameet Bay to Ocean Falls

A once stately home in Ocean Falls

June 1^st 7:30 departure cloudy drizzle 50 degrees

KISAMEET BAY TO OCEAN FALLS

There was a” gale force winds” warning for Queen Charlotte Strait but our trip, although dreary, was thankfully quite comfortable. We were so relaxed over the conditions that we listened to a book on tape as we glided along.

Our depth finder displays dashes when depths get into the 1,000+ ft. At one time I glanced up and saw the dashes but only minutes later, it was registering 13.5 feet!! I immediately brought it to Dave’s attention and he half-jokingly said, “There must be a whale beneath us.” He assured me that all was well, and then the indicator went back to dashes. Not long after that exchange, I saw a spray off our port side and then the back of a sperm whale as it dove back down. Was he smiling?

We arrived at Ocean Falls five hours later and tied up to the dock with welcomed help from a fisherman on a neighboring boat. The Ocean Falls marina is run and well maintained by volunteers. It is much more casual of an operation than we are used to, but still quite welcoming and hassle free. Moorage rates are more than reasonable. It was $74 for two nights with power. At Echo Bay it cost us $112 for one night.

A mermaid greets you as you enter Ocean Falls

Last night we read that the “bar” down the road would be open from 5-7 during the summer season. We walked the 3 miles there and back on a paved road lined with lush and colorful flowers. It felt great to finally get to stretch our legs after two weeks of practically being confined to 58 feet of boat. It was raining but we were not deterred. We were longing for a nice cold beer. Sadly, we arrived at Saggo’s Saloon only to find it closed. Apparently, the summer season here does not begin the first of June.

Ocean Falls is found at the head of Cousins Inlet and is virtually a “Ghost Town”. 35 years ago a Crown Zellerback paper mill brought 5,000 people to this part of the world. When the factory ceased operations, the government brought in bulldozers to clear out the buildings. Residents stood in front of the bulldozers and were able to save the mill, dormitories, and some of the old homes. Today, they are all in disrepair and abandoned.

You can see the powerful falls from the dam as you enter the harbor. There is also a huge fish hatchery in operation here. David got the opportunity to explore some of the historical buildings during our walk to the dam and hatchery today. Such a shame that they are so damaged, but each stands as a reminder of a once thriving town and hub of commerce.

We stopped at a small gift shop on our way back to the boat. David was whisked away by the owner’s husband, Herb, who gave David a tour of his old 1927 building. It once housed the workshops of the plumbers, electricians and construction workers in the town during its heyday. I caught up with David and was quite impressed with Herb’s well organized and tidy shop, the apartment he built for his granddaughter and his large kitchen and dining area where the menfolk meet on a regular basis.

Inside the building, a section is dedicated to “Almost Normal” Norman’s museum which is a jumble of treasures from road signs to scrapbooks which he has collected over the years. Both gentleman were great storytellers, adventurers, and hardy souls.

Norman's Museum of Treasures

Tried to link up with the marina’s wifi. It was a very weak signal, but I did finally manage to finish my updating on my iPad and load my camera photos! Getting closer to posting my blog. Baby steps.

David baked his famous cinnamon rolls this morning. They were both our breakfast and lunch. Sinfully good.